Whether you are new to climbing, new to the centre, or just want
to get more out of your sessions, The Castle has several different options
available to you.
A free service available to women boulders of all
abilities who are registered members of the Castle. It’s an informal and
unstructured chance to boulder with other women. The WWA sessions are hosted
by experienced female boulders who are there to inspire confidence, be a
central meeting point for everyone taking part, as well as to help with any
climbing related queries that you may have. She is also there to encourage
you to try new and different things.
WWA is not an instructional class, it is possible that the facilitator may
suggest that you do a course or module with us and you can find out more
information on the course we offer on our Courses and bookings page or by
asking one of our friendly reception team members.
WWA will run alongside our normal Session (7pm till 9pm Monday to Friday 2pm
till 5pm Sat and Sun); Please ask the receptionist to point out the evening’s
facilitator when you arrive. Sign in as normal to climb and then ask the
receptionist to point out the sign in sheet for WWA, they will also tell you
which area to go to for the meetup. This is a drop in session and therefore
you can arrive and leave anytime.
Session
Monday to Friday 7pm - 9pm; Saturday and Sunday 2pm - 5pm
The Session is a free drop-in service offered to registered climbers at the
Castle and is hosted by one of our experienced climbing staff.
As with WWA, it’s not a formal course but it has been designed to help
improve your climbing technique, give more specific feedback on how your
climbing is progressing, and gives you the chance to climb with a wider group
of people. If you’ve just registered or don't have a regular climbing
partner, come along to The Session.
Wednesdays are specifically aimed at helping people boulder more confidently
(mixed gender). The rest of the week’s sessions are usually focused on top-rope
routes.
Please ask the receptionist to point out the evening’s facilitator when you
arrive.
The Masterclass events are workshops held by different climbers who are well
known for their skills and experience in outdoor climbing. Some of our previous
Masterclasses have been held by people such as Johnny Dawes,
Neil Gresham, John Dunne and Katherine
Schirrmacher.
Please click on Advanced Courses to find out about the
next masterclass available.
Training/Coaching
One-to-one sessions are available for people with a desire to improve their
climbing, but do not have the time available to attend our programmed advanced
courses (Movement 1+2, Leading, Strength and Conditioning)
The content of a personal training session is exactly what you want it to be;
whether that may be learning much more advanced techniques such as a
"drop-knee" or "egyptian", or you'd like an ongoing training programme designed
specifically for you. It may also be that group learning doesn't work for
you and that you would feel more confident learning on a one-to-one approach.
Perhaps you just wish to improve your ropework or want to learn to become a
confident and able abseiler.
Please email the Castle on the address
or phone 020 8211 7000 to find out more about personal training and what
it can offer you.
The New Climb Catalunya Experience!
Climb Catalunya run hassle-free climbing trips and
courses in Spain. These excellent holidays are ideal for relative novices and
hardened enthusiasts alike. Stunning locations, exceptional climbing, and great
value combine to make these trips superb.
The Castle and Climb Catalunya have had a non-financial
relationship for nine years organising and guiding trips for climbers from the
Castle. Over this time The Castle has come to regard their holidays as a
fantastic service for customers, regardless of levels of experience or
technical ability, and the courses offered are a natural extension to our own.
For this reason these trips have been much loved, with many people going again
and again. That’s hardly surprising given the exceptional amount of quality
rock climbing in the area and the great service the Climb Catalunya team offer.
Their expert local knowledge of the sectors and routes makes it one of the best
ways to maximize your climbing time on a trip. The friendly and relaxed
atmosphere makes it an ideal way for newer climbers to gain confidence and
experience, while the more experienced will find all the challenge and
memorable routes they could ask for in Europe’s greatest climbing region.
So, what is the climbing
like?
Well, world famous climber Chris Sharma says:
“The very first time I visited the province of Lleida, I
knew that this was a really special place for climbing. Four years down the
line, my initial conclusions haven’t changed at all. From its magnificent
classic areas, through to some amazing new super-crags, in whose development I
am immensely proud to have played a leading role, Lleida is a rock climber’s
paradise. For me personally, rather than just a place to pay the occasional
visit, Lleida has now become my second home.”
Catalunya boasts an exceptional range of climbing locations all in
easy striking distance of our base. Within walking distance of the
accommodation lie the crags and faces around Abella de la Conca. This area was
first developed in the 1990’s and the new-routing means many sectors are still
not in any guide books. Easy drives take us to the incredible gorges of
Vilanova de Meia to the south, Terradets and Collegats to the west, and Coll de
Nargo, Perles, Tres Ponts and Olliana to the east. There you will find
everything from accessible single pitch climbing to state of the art sports
routes, as well as multi-pitch climbing from two to 16 pitches long.
For experienced climbers
For established climbers the opportunities are exceptional:
we feel that there is no way that anyone who visited the climbing sectors under
their own steam could achieve as much in the time given. There is no time
wasted looking for routes, no getting lost on the approach trails and no epics
caused by nasty surprises - the Climb Catalunya team know the sectors like the
backs of their hands. If the weather turns for the worst they know where the
dry rock will be.
With all transport, accommodation and meals included in the
cost stated it’s also fantastic value for money. We calculated that we couldn’t
get that much climbing done and spend less. More to the point, the Climb
Catalunya team’s local knowledge is truly priceless.
As for the climbing? There are literally thousands of routes,
ranging from F4a to 8c, trad and sport, semi-equipped, slabs, overhanging,
single pitch, short multi-pitches through to full-day routes.
For less experienced or
indoor climbers
For relative newcomers to the sport or those who have not
yet climbed outdoors, the Climb Catalunya trips are an excellent way to gain
experience and confidence on real rock. This is regardless of whether you
choose a formal course or holiday - you will learn on both.
Whilst The Castle endorses several outdoor course providers in
Britain, whose focus is traditional climbing (i.e. leader-placed protection),
we believe that for those who climb mostly indoors a smooth transition to real
rock is more easily achieved in a sport climbing environment (i.e. in-situ
protection, equivalent to the set-up at The Castle). Catalunya is world-class
for its sport climbing sectors, whether they be single- or multi-pitch.
Dates and Venues for 2013 (Liaisons
to be confirmed)
Spring:
May 11th to 18th Classic Gorges£375
Summer:
June 15th to 23rd High Pyrenees £475
August – Kid friendly Gorges trip (tbc)
Autumn:
Sept 21 to 28th Classic Gorges £375
Oct 12th to 19th Classic Gorges £375
Classic Gorges Itinerary (£375)
Throughout the spring and autumn, the
Classic Gorges itinerary is designed to make the most of the full range of
climbing and rock types in the area, with the accommodation being the only
fixed part of the programme. There is a high degree of flexibility built in to
allow clients to concentrate on their personal preferences. Early in the week
let us know what your personal climbing priorities are so we can do our best to
meet your needs.
Areas we will climb in can include:
Abella de la Conca: The village where
our accommodation is based is surrounded by grey limestone crags a stone’s
throw from the front door. Here we find single pitch routes, mostly sports
climbing but with some semi equipped or trad routes thrown in if that’s your
thing. From delicate technical slabs to sustained face climbing Abella offers
routes from 4+ to 8c. Being on the door step means you can keep returning to
work a project, or take an afternoon out and enjoy the pools and waterfalls in
the river below. There has been a lot of recent new development in the area so
many new routes to try.
Vilanova de Meia: This gorge is
considered one of the jewels of Spanish multi-pitch climbing. The limestone
walls boast an incredible array of both bolted and traditional routes from the
relatively accessible two to four pitch lines of the Paret de Zarathustra and
Pas Nou to the impressively steep and sustained face climbs of Roca dels Arcs.
The smaller walls offer numerous sports sectors with a full range of grades to
suit everyone.
Terradets: Terradets dramatically cuts
north-south through the Montsec mountains. Its western side presents stunning
climbs towering up to 500 metres high, while the eastern walls are home to
world class sports sectors on overhanging tufas going up to 9a!
We will also be able to visit sectors
in Camarasa, Collegats, Oliana, Coll de Nargo, Perles, Tres Ponts, Cubells,
Alos de Balaguer, and La Pauta. Many of these areas have never featured before
on our trips – so always something new for our old friends.
Our new
base
This year we
will be running our trips from a great new location in the heart of the village
of Abella de la Conca. A 200 year old stone built village house, formally a
hostel for land workers in the heyday of Spain’s agricultural development, is
being converted into an ecologically sustainably, low consumption gite. The
house sits in a lovely location on the village square, with towering cliffs
just behind and a beautiful view over abundant almond groves to the nearby
hills of Vilanova de Meia. You can walk out of the front door with
your harness on and be on rock within a few hundred meters. Wander through the
tiny cobbled village streets and find cactus plants, golden calendula, fig
trees and passion flowers lining the way. Climb your way up to
nearby rock arches and a spectacular cave. Sit by the village fountain and
watch as dozens of vultures soar above you or stroll down through ancient olive
groves on a roman pathway to the refreshing fresh water pools that lie at the
bottom of the village.
The house is
owned by Ella and Nicolas, an anglo-french couple with two small
children. With close to 40 years climbing experience between them,
in areas as diverse as Bolivia, Poland and Madagascar they have set up home in
beautiful Catalunya and have a sound knowledge of the climbing areas as well as
local wine producers, swimming spots and other essentials! Accomodation is in
simple, comfortable 2 person rooms or in our lovely, bright and spacious 4
person attic room. Two new bathrooms provide steaming hot showers and should
you really need to unwind stiff muscles there’s the option to fire up the
purpose built sauna! Relax after a long days climbing under huge
wooden beams next to the wood fired stove or old French aga. Delicious,
fresh food will be prepared daily, sourced as locally as possible and catering
to a principally vegetarian diet. Lunches will be packed lunch –often hearty
pre-cooked meals (we can supply the tupperware!), as well as fruit and snacks.
There will be opportunities to pick up other any special stuff you need to add
in to suit your specific requirements but please notify us of any severe nut or
other allergies before arrival.
High Pyrenees
Itinerary (£475)
The High Pyrenees itinerary
takes you to the granite wonderland of the Twisted Waters National Park. There
we would find some of the highest quality granite climbing in Europe.
Climbing around the Cavallers dam
(1800m). It is an excellent place to acclimatise to the rock and
climbing styles demanded by featured granite routes. Easily
accessible and close to the dam are many bolted single pitch and short
multi-pitch routes. These slabs, corners and flakes hold delightful
challenges for novices and expert alike. Towering above the lake,
the needles of Comelestorres offer stunning multi-pitch routes up to 250m in
length (from 4+ to F7a). Exceptional routes include: Accomplices, a
unique line snaking up a steep and airy arête (160m, 3 pitches, 6a, equipped);
and Blues, an excellent and sinuous route connecting the best cracks and flakes
on the main needle (235m, 7 pitches, 6b, semi-equipped).
Further in the park, trad routes from
grade 5 can be found on the needles of Travessani, whose jagged profile
dominates the skyline to the north as we approach. More serious
challenges are found in routes like the west Chimney (5+ trad) on the dark and
intimidating north face of Comalespasa, and the steep super-classic of the
Mordor Spur (6b trad). Home to the best granite sports routes in
Europe in sectors like the Sanctuary, den slab, and El Vermell (routes from 5+
to 8b). Not to be missed.
The final days are spent around the
beautiful Ocean Lake (2250m). Here again we find a full range of
both sports climbing and longer trad and equipped routes. Close at
hand are many sectors opened by the refuge keeper, offering everything from
delicate slabs to steep finger cracks. Slightly further afield the
unmissable trad classics and long mountain days out take in summits like
Tumeneja (2783m) following Via Evident (250m, 7 pitches, 4+, trad). Meanwhile
the steep slabs and corners of Mare Nostrum begin on hanging belays just meters
above the crystal clear waters of Ocean Lake where truly magical lines up to
F7a can be found. There is always something here to bring everyone’s
trip to a memorable conclusion.
(Please note
the itinerary of this holiday may change depending on the weather and ability
of the group.)
What
is and isn’t included in the price?
The cost of the trip includes all accommodation, food and
transport in Spain, from the time of your pick-up in Barcelona to the time of
your drop-off a week or so later. Travel to Spain and climbing/holiday
insurance are not included and are your responsibility to organise. The amount
of gear you need is dependent on whether you are going on a holiday or a
course. All non-personal gear is included for courses (e.g. ropes, anchor
slings), but for the holidays the groups must be self-sufficient. Equipment
lists can be provided on request or at the time of booking.
How
to Book
The dates
and venues are posted on the designated notice board in the centre of the
main stairs at The Castle. If you are interested in booking or wish more
information please contact Sophie directly;
Once you’ve decided which trip you want to go on you will need to
pay a non-refundable £100 deposit to confirm your place. The balance is due at
the very latest two weeks prior to departure.
As mentioned previously you must organise your own
climbing/holiday insurance and transport to Barcelona, but your liaison will
give you the exact details of where you have to be and when. A few weeks before
the trip the liaison will arrange a meeting of the entire group and at that
time the gear lists will be finalised.